Week 2

Day 8 (14/7): Cedar Creek to Seely Lake

Distance: ____ km 

Elevation Gain: ____m 

Somehow there are mosquitos in the morning. We are displeased. But have a nice chat with the British family sharing our campsite despite their nibbles. The climb out of Seely lake is rough and nasty hot, but we’re rewarded with a nice lunch at holland lake - powdered mashed potatoes with cheese. Sooo happy to share my culture with my man <3. Lured into a false sense of security by the emerald water and vacation vibes, the shock that half a days climbing remains nearly results in spontaneous combustion, but I’ve got one job on the divide so I do it. The top of the climb rewards us with an equal parts scenic and terrifying descent into Seely Lake, immersing enough to induce a temporary truce between me and the every foreboding “bear hour.” 

Seely Lake itself. looks like one big boyscout camp, despite having no campgrounds nearby, or any sort of open accommodation to speak of, but we’re famished so fooding first, at the (only) place in town - the Ice cream shop - malt shakes, meat, and a storied cast of Montana characters (a notable favourite - man who chases Grizzlys from his farm on the reg).  

Visibly missing a fundamental on the hierarchy of needs, we must have looked fairly pathetic, as one of the shop’s workers suggested we just pitched our tent in the lot behind. Sounds good, we said. 

Day 9 (15/7): Seely Lake to Lincoln

Distance: 110 km

Elevation Gain: 1337 m 

We wake up behind the ice cream shop and splay out shit all over someones yard. Unwilling to do this literally as well, we headed to an overpriced coffee shop to do the deed. Returning to the damp pile we called home, we squatted in the parking lot and cowed down on a gas station breakfast. Fast gravel gets us to Ovando in no time- slow dog, and gun stickers everywhere. The threat of the NRA however is no match for my thieving hands. Big climb hurts feet bad. On the plus side I finally learn to ride over cattle guards and see an animal I’m going to assume is a badger. Lincoln is sketchy and rife with meth types. There are plenty of divide cyclists, however, and we see the Canadian homies from day one! We enjoy some trailer park laundry surrounded by cats, and munch on late night burritos while we wait for our clothes to dry. 

Day 11 (17/7): Helena to Basin

Distance: R - 66 km, V - 80 km 

Elevation Gain: 1551 m 

R - hot AF slow uphill. Challenging summit. Rain. Flat tire in rain. Cleaning wounds in river bc lady at campground "didn’t let me shower". Bonding with James. Scored cigarette from rando. Sunstroke - passed out. 

V- extremely hot. Hot wind. Listened to like 4 hours of The Corrections. Arrived to find Robin cleaning wounds at river on someone’s private property with scary dogs. Went to hang out in bar, trump signs and elk heads. The locals are nice. Sleepover with other cyclists in the basin community center. 

Day 12 (18/7): Basin to Divide Bridge Campground

Distance: 125 km 

Elevation Gain: 1863 m 

Breakfast with the crew in Basin before 60k of ungodly headwinds. Butte Burger King disappointment - is anyone surprised? Robin needed new sandals, leading us to a redneck outdoors store packed with AR 15s and guns4kids. We take an alternative route skip fleecer, still ending up with a hardcore 30km uphill slog out of Butte, and still the most km I’ve ever ridden in a day! We have some mosquito drama and Robin is a big meanie at the campsite. 

Day 13 (19/7): Divide Bridge Campground to Bannack

Distance: 106 km 

Elevation Gain: 1011 m 

We ride into Wise River in the morning and meet a big GDMBR fan girl, working at the Mercantile. We sign her guest book, and then are off to a big climb. Almost the whole day is on the road, with the highlight of meeting Maureen (?), a friendly Canadian solo female cyclist, who tackled fleecer on a lightweight gravel bike. We roll into camp early today, but don't manage to avoid the mosquitos, the only constant in our lives. As they feast upon us, we realise that Robin's wound has fused to the gauze.